Trip to Tuscarora
Day 0: The drive to Sawbill
The trip up I-35 was largely uneventful, the highlight being a stop for lunch at Culver's.
We arrived at Sawbill Lake in the late afternoon and set up at Site 18, a nice private site. Although it backed up to the lake, there wasn't a clear path down the steep bank.
After stopping by the well-stocked (and reasonably priced) camp store for some last minute supplies, we roasted hot-dogs over a small and smoky fire built with the green firewood sold for $5 a bundle at the same store.
Before we'd even had time to break out the marshmallows a huge thunderstorm rolled in that lasted until just before dawn.
Mom and Dad's REI tent stayed bone dry, but the larger Eureka! that I shared with my brother and sister left us a little soggy by morning.
Day 1: Sawbill to Hub Lake
I was already awake when the sky started turning grey early on the morning of our first day, so I got up and began packing up for the trip.
The rest of the family was up before too long and after a quick breakfast of greek yogurt and granola bars, we were in the water by 0730 paddling across Sawbill Lake.
We took the short and easy portage to Alton Lake, the last thing this trip had in common with last year's.
We paddled our two homemade Kevlar canoes north, portaging to Kelso Lake, which is bigger than it appeared on my National Geographic map.
We then followed the Kelso River through a marshy area, making a wrong turn to the left which quickly dead ended.
Although the map shows a Y to the left as the main river turns right toward Steak Lake, I never saw the split. In any case, we were all too quickly in Lujenida Lake, on the doorstep of the dread Lujenida Portage. It had loomed on the map for days before the trip, a winding dashed line that seemed as if it would never end. Overall the trail was not bad. Slightly less than half of it was through shallow water that, rather than hindering our progress, actually felt good on our tired feet. While traversing the portage, we crossed paths with two guys as they double portaged to get their fishing and photography equipment across. Finally, after setting down the canoe twice to rest, Zenith Lake shimmered through the trees, marking the end. We stopped for a well deserved lunch of PB&J on flatbread and my brother and I stripped to the waist for a refreshing swim. The water was shallow for only a few feet before dropping off sharply.
After a quick paddle we portaged the 67 rods to Duck Lake. This portage followed a rushing river, passing by a small pond where I mistakenly set my canoe down, thinking we had reached the end. The trail then passed over a narrow bridge made up of four narrow timbers as the rapids swirled and foamed below.
Duck lake was small and shallow, covered in lily pads. Our paddle ended a small rapids/waterfall into Hug Lake. After searching in vain for a portage around, we finally scrambled around on the rocks piled nearby, a straight forward process that led us into Hug Lake.
We followed this lake until it narrowed into a swift moving channel. After debating for several minutes whether to walk around or paddle though, we finally settled on walking alongside our fragile Kevlar canoes as the water rushed around our knees. Almost immediately after getting back into the boats we were out again at the portage to Mesaba Lake.
The trail was short, but narrow and overgrown, showing no signs of recent use. We paddled quickly across the unremarkable Mesaba Lake and began to search for the next portage.
After wasting close to an hour wandering in the brush next to the rapid flowing creek that flowed toward Hub lake, we finally found the portage several rods to our left. This portage was also overgrown and rarely used.
After rejecting the campsite on the eastern shore of Hub Lake as too small and steep, we paddled to the southwestern site. This spot, located in a deep bay is very nice with bright morning sun, ample space to set up our tents, abundant firewood, and no signs of recent use.
Day 2: Hub Lake to Tuscarora Lake
After feasting on bacon and eggs fried up in a small cast iron pan over the open flame, we loaded our canoes and paddled across the lake toward the portage to Fente Lake. This 287 rod portage was no less overgrown than the last two, and was actually blocked by fallen trees in two places that we had to hack our way through with a hatchet.
The hardest part about the short portage into Whipped Lake was avoiding the strong current toward the rapids while unloading the canoes.
Most of the trees around Mora Lake had been burned out in a wildfire, but judging from the new growth, it had been several years ago. The campsite we passed as we paddled through was pretty, located high up on a rocky peninsula.
The portage into Tarry Lake was short and marshy, hidden in a deep fjord along the jagged coast.
Tarry Lake ended in what was by far the most beautiful portage of our trip. It started at the rocky end of rushing creek among low hanging cedar trees.
The trail wound up a fairly steep grade giving frequent views of rapids and waterfalls to the left. Right before the steep downhill slide into Crooked Lake, we discovered wild blueberries, a nice late morning snack.
Crooked Lake was pretty, with several good campsites and a few other paddlers.
The portages to Owl and Tuscarora Lakes were short and well traveled. Although the latter had a fallen tree across it, previous voyagers had trimmed the branches away, making it easier to cross.
We passed by a spectacular campsite on a high rock at the southwest corner of the lake, already occupied, unfortunately.
Although we searched the islands for the campsite shown on my map, they seemed marshy and we didn't see any signs of a campsite.
The site on a rocky point east of the island was also taken, so we followed the coast north to one in a sandy cove. This site was damp and sandy, with large roots making sleep more difficult. Although there was no rain that night, the bank showed signs of heavy run off from the last rain. It did offer a spectacular view of the sunset, though.
Day 3: Tuscarora Lake to Long Island Lake
We left Tuscarora Lake and tried fishing (without any luck) as we paddled across. The 280 rod portage to Hubbub Lake was moderately used and was broken by a marshy pond about halfway across.
Although Hubbub Lake connects directly to Snipe Lake on our map, the creek was not navigable. The portage to Copper Lake was short but swampy, with a partially washed out bridge over a slow moving stream.
Copper Lake was fairly ordinary and ended in a swamp that we had to wade across as we portaged to Snipe Lake. Just when we were wondering if we were even on the trail, it rose steeply up, then down to the lake.
We saw several canoes as we crossed Snipe Lake, presumably from the Round Lake landing off the Gun Flint Trail. The campsite at the eastern end of the lake was high on a rock and looked very good.
From there we portaged to Rib Lake, a beautiful isolated lake with a single campsite that we scouted as a possibility for a future trip.
From there we took the trail to Lower George Lake. The path split from the southwest bank of the river, rather than out of the swamp as my map showed, but was otherwise an easy hike.
Lower George is little more than a wide river, and the day's last portage to Long Island Lake was simple.
We considered taking the short portage to the other end of Long Island Lake, but opted instead to paddle around and stopped for the night at the campsite on the south west corner of the large peninsula.
This was possibly our best campsite, very scenic with cedar trees, several flat spots suitable for tents, and a fresh breeze that blew away the mosquitoes.
Day 4: Long Island Lake to Cherokee Lake
Our easiest day, we put the two short portages behind us in short order and paddled the length of Cherokee Lake before lunch, despite gusting headwinds most of the way.
The campsite on a long peninsula was occupied by a solo paddler in a cedar strip canoe, so we took the one on the west bank of Cherokee Creek, a nice campsite, although further exploring showed the one on the east bank was even better.
Day 5: Cherokee Lake back to Sawbill Lake
Our final day began paddling up a series of marshy creeks. The portages were fairly short and seemed easy after the obstacles we encountered earlier in the trip.
As we rounded the corner of the last trail into Sawbill Lake, I was surprised to see an armada of about 7 canoes waiting to land. It was good to be back in civilization.
The trip up I-35 was largely uneventful, the highlight being a stop for lunch at Culver's.
We arrived at Sawbill Lake in the late afternoon and set up at Site 18, a nice private site. Although it backed up to the lake, there wasn't a clear path down the steep bank.
 |
| Site 18, Sawbill Lake |
After stopping by the well-stocked (and reasonably priced) camp store for some last minute supplies, we roasted hot-dogs over a small and smoky fire built with the green firewood sold for $5 a bundle at the same store.
 |
| Green Firewood :( |
Before we'd even had time to break out the marshmallows a huge thunderstorm rolled in that lasted until just before dawn.
Mom and Dad's REI tent stayed bone dry, but the larger Eureka! that I shared with my brother and sister left us a little soggy by morning.
Day 1: Sawbill to Hub Lake
I was already awake when the sky started turning grey early on the morning of our first day, so I got up and began packing up for the trip.
The rest of the family was up before too long and after a quick breakfast of greek yogurt and granola bars, we were in the water by 0730 paddling across Sawbill Lake.
We took the short and easy portage to Alton Lake, the last thing this trip had in common with last year's.
We paddled our two homemade Kevlar canoes north, portaging to Kelso Lake, which is bigger than it appeared on my National Geographic map.
 |
| Kelso River |
We then followed the Kelso River through a marshy area, making a wrong turn to the left which quickly dead ended.
 |
| Keslo River |
Although the map shows a Y to the left as the main river turns right toward Steak Lake, I never saw the split. In any case, we were all too quickly in Lujenida Lake, on the doorstep of the dread Lujenida Portage. It had loomed on the map for days before the trip, a winding dashed line that seemed as if it would never end. Overall the trail was not bad. Slightly less than half of it was through shallow water that, rather than hindering our progress, actually felt good on our tired feet. While traversing the portage, we crossed paths with two guys as they double portaged to get their fishing and photography equipment across. Finally, after setting down the canoe twice to rest, Zenith Lake shimmered through the trees, marking the end. We stopped for a well deserved lunch of PB&J on flatbread and my brother and I stripped to the waist for a refreshing swim. The water was shallow for only a few feet before dropping off sharply.
After a quick paddle we portaged the 67 rods to Duck Lake. This portage followed a rushing river, passing by a small pond where I mistakenly set my canoe down, thinking we had reached the end. The trail then passed over a narrow bridge made up of four narrow timbers as the rapids swirled and foamed below.
Duck lake was small and shallow, covered in lily pads. Our paddle ended a small rapids/waterfall into Hug Lake. After searching in vain for a portage around, we finally scrambled around on the rocks piled nearby, a straight forward process that led us into Hug Lake.
We followed this lake until it narrowed into a swift moving channel. After debating for several minutes whether to walk around or paddle though, we finally settled on walking alongside our fragile Kevlar canoes as the water rushed around our knees. Almost immediately after getting back into the boats we were out again at the portage to Mesaba Lake.
The trail was short, but narrow and overgrown, showing no signs of recent use. We paddled quickly across the unremarkable Mesaba Lake and began to search for the next portage.
After wasting close to an hour wandering in the brush next to the rapid flowing creek that flowed toward Hub lake, we finally found the portage several rods to our left. This portage was also overgrown and rarely used.
After rejecting the campsite on the eastern shore of Hub Lake as too small and steep, we paddled to the southwestern site. This spot, located in a deep bay is very nice with bright morning sun, ample space to set up our tents, abundant firewood, and no signs of recent use.
Day 2: Hub Lake to Tuscarora Lake
After feasting on bacon and eggs fried up in a small cast iron pan over the open flame, we loaded our canoes and paddled across the lake toward the portage to Fente Lake. This 287 rod portage was no less overgrown than the last two, and was actually blocked by fallen trees in two places that we had to hack our way through with a hatchet.
The hardest part about the short portage into Whipped Lake was avoiding the strong current toward the rapids while unloading the canoes.
 |
| Rapids flowing into Whipped Lake |
The portage into Tarry Lake was short and marshy, hidden in a deep fjord along the jagged coast.
 |
| Mora Lake |
Tarry Lake ended in what was by far the most beautiful portage of our trip. It started at the rocky end of rushing creek among low hanging cedar trees.
 |
| Falls flowing into Tarry Lake |
The trail wound up a fairly steep grade giving frequent views of rapids and waterfalls to the left. Right before the steep downhill slide into Crooked Lake, we discovered wild blueberries, a nice late morning snack.
 |
| Crooked Lake Portage |
Crooked Lake was pretty, with several good campsites and a few other paddlers.
The portages to Owl and Tuscarora Lakes were short and well traveled. Although the latter had a fallen tree across it, previous voyagers had trimmed the branches away, making it easier to cross.
We passed by a spectacular campsite on a high rock at the southwest corner of the lake, already occupied, unfortunately.
Although we searched the islands for the campsite shown on my map, they seemed marshy and we didn't see any signs of a campsite.
The site on a rocky point east of the island was also taken, so we followed the coast north to one in a sandy cove. This site was damp and sandy, with large roots making sleep more difficult. Although there was no rain that night, the bank showed signs of heavy run off from the last rain. It did offer a spectacular view of the sunset, though.
 |
| Sunset over Tuscarora Lake |
Day 3: Tuscarora Lake to Long Island Lake
We left Tuscarora Lake and tried fishing (without any luck) as we paddled across. The 280 rod portage to Hubbub Lake was moderately used and was broken by a marshy pond about halfway across.
Although Hubbub Lake connects directly to Snipe Lake on our map, the creek was not navigable. The portage to Copper Lake was short but swampy, with a partially washed out bridge over a slow moving stream.
Copper Lake was fairly ordinary and ended in a swamp that we had to wade across as we portaged to Snipe Lake. Just when we were wondering if we were even on the trail, it rose steeply up, then down to the lake.
We saw several canoes as we crossed Snipe Lake, presumably from the Round Lake landing off the Gun Flint Trail. The campsite at the eastern end of the lake was high on a rock and looked very good.
From there we portaged to Rib Lake, a beautiful isolated lake with a single campsite that we scouted as a possibility for a future trip.
From there we took the trail to Lower George Lake. The path split from the southwest bank of the river, rather than out of the swamp as my map showed, but was otherwise an easy hike.
Lower George is little more than a wide river, and the day's last portage to Long Island Lake was simple.
We considered taking the short portage to the other end of Long Island Lake, but opted instead to paddle around and stopped for the night at the campsite on the south west corner of the large peninsula.
This was possibly our best campsite, very scenic with cedar trees, several flat spots suitable for tents, and a fresh breeze that blew away the mosquitoes.
 |
| Mom & Dad at our Campsite on Long Island Lake |
Day 4: Long Island Lake to Cherokee Lake
Our easiest day, we put the two short portages behind us in short order and paddled the length of Cherokee Lake before lunch, despite gusting headwinds most of the way.
The campsite on a long peninsula was occupied by a solo paddler in a cedar strip canoe, so we took the one on the west bank of Cherokee Creek, a nice campsite, although further exploring showed the one on the east bank was even better.
Day 5: Cherokee Lake back to Sawbill Lake
Our final day began paddling up a series of marshy creeks. The portages were fairly short and seemed easy after the obstacles we encountered earlier in the trip.
 |
| The Final Portage |
As we rounded the corner of the last trail into Sawbill Lake, I was surprised to see an armada of about 7 canoes waiting to land. It was good to be back in civilization.
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